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  #21  
Old 23rd July 2012, 04:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Douglas Ferrier View Post
Keep in mind when going for longer life tyres, the tyres are subject to aging even if not being used, the rubber does go brittle over time and side walls weaken, hence the general rule of thumb I have often heard quoted, is to plan for max life of 5 years, have to say it seems real when I look at how dodgy the tyres on my trailer are now with lots of tread left and 8 years under them, but only 5,000 to 10,000km done.
I'm of the same thinking too. Once the tyres are at the 4 or 5yr mark I also like change mine aswell. Since mine are now at the 4yr mark, I will be changing them soon, probably around Nov-Dec at the end of the year.
It just so happens that by that stage, they will be at the end of their tread life anyway.
So for me the timing has worked out quite well

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  #22  
Old 23rd July 2012, 05:06 AM
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Gidday Douglas, Mr T

Quote:
Originally Posted by Douglas Ferrier View Post

Keep in mind when going for longer life tyres, the tyres are subject to aging even if not being used, the rubber does go brittle over time and side walls weaken, hence the general rule of thumb I have often heard quoted, is to plan for max life of 5 years, have to say it seems real when I look at how dodgy the tyres on my trailer are now with lots of tread left and 8 years under them, but only 5,000 to 10,000km done.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr turbo View Post
I'm of the same thinking too. Once the tyres are at the 4 or 5yr mark I also like change mine aswell. Since mine are now at the 4yr mark, I will be changing them soon, probably around Nov-Dec at the end of the year.
It just so happens that by that stage, they will be at the end of their tread life anyway.
So for me the timing has worked out quite well

Regards
Mr Turbo
The Yokohamas on my trailer were 30 y.o. when I replaced them with Subaru rims and 215/60 16 tyres.

The last "work" they did was about 2 years ago with multiple trips from Melbourne to Apollo Bay and back (450 kms round trip). On the way back, the trailer was fully loaded. Speeds up to around 100~110 kmh. Zero problems.

OTOH, even the crappy Michelin Certis tyres I removed from Roo1 were nearly 10 years old, with over 50,000 kms on them. Apart from the fact that the compound was actually crumbling (I haven't seen anything like this on any other tyre under about 50 y.o.), they still handled and braked superbly - wet and dry.

I have this wholly unworthy suspicion that much of this information is based on tyre companies wanting us to replace perfectly good, perfectly roadworthy tyres with new ones ...
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  #23  
Old 23rd July 2012, 06:59 AM
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Ratbag you may be right.

Not really a problem for me doing 25,000 to 30,000km / year the tread wears in short time frames.

But on the hand, I had a very scary incident as UNI student with an older tyre (plenty of tread) steel belted about 6 years old blow a sidewall while doing about 70km/hr.

Had me in the drain (was front left tyre) before I could blink, saw my life flash before my eyes, so do not really want to tempt any repeats of that experience, yes maybe unusual but very scary, was lucky enough to not seriously damage the car, myself or passengers.

I am happy to be a bit more cautious, and like you say, many tyres are likely to still be good for much longer, down side is you just can not be sure
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  #24  
Old 23rd July 2012, 08:09 AM
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Gidday Douglas

LOTS of things can cause such a blow-out, as I am certain you are aware.
  • Hitting a curb or other such object in just the wrong way/wrong angle;
    Manufacturing defect in the tyre;
    Poor quality tyre/design (as the Michelin tech rep said to me "the Certis is not the best tyre we have ever made ... ";
    Damage caused by something on the road, either at the time, or some past event;

IOW, there are lots of very common, normal explanations for this sort of thing happening. Also very good reasons for buying good quality tyres, and inspecting them regularly.

I have driven on tyres of all kinds without having these sorts of problems. I did have a tread separation on a retread once (back in the days when I just could not afford to buy new tyres ... ).

Having said all that, I am fully aware of the tremendous importance of keeping one's tyres in good condition; and regularly inspecting them.
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  #25  
Old 23rd July 2012, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thunder039 View Post
$225 good price i got mine cost price through a work shop for 218.
Yup, I paid $225 also. A lot of other places were asking north of $250....
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  #26  
Old 23rd July 2012, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shiv View Post
Yup, I paid $22. A lot of other places were asking 5 alsonorth of $250....
$250 was my average quote also
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  #27  
Old 23rd July 2012, 09:36 PM
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I was quoted $225 a corner fitted and balanced.

One of a number of reasons that I chose to go with Michelin XM2s ...
They cost me $165 a corner fitted and balanced (x4), plus $89 for a full four wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe-in/toe-out; check straightness/squareness of vehicle). The tyre place also fitted and balanced 3 of my old Pirelli P7s onto my trailer rims as part of the deal (going price for this done separately seems to be about $20~35 per tyre ... ). $749 the lot! . Had I decided on the AT/s, I would also have had to purchase 5, as my current spare is a road tyre - brand new Yokohama 'Geosquealer".

I bought the Michelins as they are very well reviewed generally, and by several members here. Seem to be considerably longer lasting than the Yokohama AT/s (65~95K kms vs 40~55K kms), and very significantly cheaper. I was also concerned by a number of member reports here that they found the AT/s noisy on-road, and not as good for handling/braking as a good touring tyre in the wet on-road.

I also found that Nachaluva's AT/s were just as useless as my P7s when we were at Bunyip SP together. I am sure that the AT/s are better in some situations off-road, but I really don't want to stress my vehicle like that, and it's not what I bought it for.

As to the Michelins, I am very happy with them so far, with about 1,400 kms on them. On-road performance is brilliant (far better than the P7s). They have only been off-road at Lerderderg Gorge, but performed well there. Nothing very startling (I am way past looking for "startling" experiences ... ), but they were excellent for braking and general handling on the dirt, and we didn't wander off into the scrub at the slightest sign of wet bits and muddy downhill slopes ...

Are the AT/s worth $60 extra per tyre for around 2/3 the mileage?
Down to the individual, I guess.
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  #28  
Old 23rd July 2012, 11:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratbag View Post
I really don't want to stress my vehicle like that, and it's not what I bought it for.
Are the AT/s worth $60 extra per tyre for around 2/3 the mileage?
Down to the individual, I guess.
fair enough ratbag, if i didn't go off road, or not very often i wouldn't consider the geolanders, as they do get less mileage and not as good as a road tyre on road. which is your case i would imagine very similar.

in the 5,000 ks on my at-s they are worth every penny, been through a lot of different types of terrain so far, rock-great, gravel- great, muddy paddock- great, snow-fantastic which is the main reason for the tyres for me.
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  #29  
Old 24th July 2012, 12:10 AM
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^ I can see both points by Ratbag and Thunder here. I go offroad 3-4 times a week in my free time, either for exploring or just to burn about and have some fun

I find that the Geo's were great for that but I'm just not happy with the wear of them considering the price. Thus my reason to go with BFG's next for $50 more a tyre and have them last me 2-3 years rather than just over 1 year like my Geo AT-S did.

While I have looked into other tyres I am yet to find anything for around the 200-250 mark (each) that's better than the Geo's and lasts longer that will fit my car. So I see my only option is going with BFG's for $300 a tyre and having them last between 70-100+k km.

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  #30  
Old 24th July 2012, 12:19 AM
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Gidday Thunder

Quote:
Originally Posted by thunder039 View Post
fair enough ratbag, if i didn't go off road, or not very often i wouldn't consider the geolanders, as they do get less mileage and not as good as a road tyre on road. which is your case i would imagine very similar.

in the 5,000 ks on my at-s they are worth every penny, been through a lot of different types of terrain so far, rock-great, gravel- great, muddy paddock- great, snow-fantastic which is the main reason for the tyres for me.
Great that they suit you and your needs so well mate.

On my LC, I ran Goodyear Custom Hi-Milers on the front (for steering/braking and decent mileage), and full bar lugs on the back for their unreal performance in muddy/rocky terrain. I am told by a chap I have known for years at the local Bridgestone shop that there is now a block lugged tyre that will equal or even surpass a full bar lug tyre for this kind of work, and isn't as good at digging ditches in sand ... . It is also actually usable on-road ...

For most of my life, the only tread pattern that would clear mud between when it comes out of the ground and when it goes back in again has been the full bar lug design. They will also "walk" over and "climb" on rocks, where any other tread pattern will usually spin helplessly. I had previously tried a couple of "off-road" pattern tyres like the ones one commonly sees today. Olympic used to make quite a good one. Not as good as digging themselves into a sandy grave as the full bar lugs, but nowhere near as good in any other circumstance.

The problem with our vehicles is that they are designed and built as "any-road vehicles", not as off-road vehicles. They are remarkably capable, for all that. Even my Impreza was pretty darn good in evil conditions, even given its rotten clearance and approach/departure angles. However, I reckon the best description one could reasonably assign to it was "a 110 mph, AWD sports car"!

As I have mentioned previously, I even investigated the path of moving to 15" rims so that I could look at the plethora of LT tyres available in that rim size that would still be legal on Roo2. IMHO, this is really the only route for getting serious off-road tyres on our vehicles. Also IMO, this would cause interference with the primary safety characteristics of our type of vehicle. If I lived at Oodnadatta, I wouldn't hesitate. But I don't ... So compromise is the order of the day for me. A compromise that does not compromise on-road handling and braking in any way whatsoever.
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