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  #1  
Unread 24th March 2013, 10:12 AM
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Default Brake Job

So I finally got around to doing the front brakes on my forester today and thought I'd do a bit of a write up in case we don't have one here...

Now the first thing to do is clear a work space and collect all the tools required.
I didn't machine the rotors as they feel fine under braking and they don't have a lip that I could feel, normally I would machine them anyway to de-glaze them but as I'm planning to do a 4 pot upgrade at the end of the year after my wedding so I didn't bother.


Now here's a list of tools I used:

19mm socket and breaker bar or rattle gun
Jack
Jack stands
14mm ring spanner
10mm pipe spanner
large flat blade screw driver
puller set
fluid bleeder bottle

I cleared a spot in my shed and jacked the front of the car up and got it set up on the stands.





After its up in the air, get the wheels off and out of the way and you should be confronted with something like this.



Now because I'm not machining the rotors I left the caliper bolted to the hub and removed the floating part of the caliper from the slides.

you can see the two small bolts in this picture, they are the ones at the top and bottom with a 14mm head.



If you remove the bolt from the lower slide you can flip the caliper up and remove the pads like this.



Use the large screw driver to remove the pads if they are a little tight in the caliper, but be careful not to damage anything.
once you have the caliper up and the pads removed you need to push the pistons back so you can fit the new pads.
don't push directly on the piston or you risk damaging them.
use one of the old pads.
Before you push the pistons back get your bleeder bottle and crack the nipple so the fluid flows into the bottle and not backwards threw the ABS unit etc. Be careful not to let air into the system or you'll have to bleed the fluid.




As you can see I used my snap on harmonic balancer puller to push the pistons back, I use to use my giant multi grips but this doesn't mark the caliper like the multi grips can.
After I pushed the pistons back I removed the top slid bolt and flipped the caliper over so that I could remove the slides to ensure they are well lubricated to ensure the pads wear evenly.





Take care with the bottom slide, it has a little rubber boot (not the dust boot) don't loose it and when you re install the slide be sure the rubber boot goes inside the fixed part of the caliper, they have a habit of folding over themselves and jamming the slide.


Out of curiosity and for demonstration purposes I measured the old pads and compared them to the new pads.



Here is the LH inner pad. It's down to 1.5mm, well within the legal limit of 0.5mm but they were starting to make noise under heavy breaking which is why I swapped them out.
Also the wear indicator is broken off.



here is the LH outter pad, its worn down to 2mm



both the RH inner and outer pads were 2mm.
The new pads are nice and thick, 9.5mm

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Unread 24th March 2013, 10:13 AM
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The new pads I used were from super ripoffs. They are DB1491, as I mentioned earlier I'm upgrading to 4 pots later in the year so I didn't splurge on expensive pads. I know some people swear by Bendix Ultimate pads but in my experience they just chew out the rotors at a stupid rate.
I prefer QFM pads but couldn't get them in town without ordering them in.



before re installing the new pads make sure to swap over the anti rattle shims onto the new pads and then install into the fixed section of the caliper where the old ones came from.
once the new pads are in, slide the caliper back over them and refit the small bolts with the 14mm head. I dont have the torque specs but I do them up hand tight and then around 1/4 of a turn with the spanner, not too tight, their only an 8mm bolt, it wont take much to snap off.

you should end up with it looking like this again.



once its all back together you can refit the wheels and do up the nuts hand tight. I know wheel nuts are suppose to be done up dry but I use a dash of nickle anti seize to prevent them binding up when they have been done up a few times.

Before you take the car back off the stands, go stick your foot on the brake pedal and give it a few pumps without the engine running. It will go to the floor at first but with 2-4 pumps you should have a nice hard pedal.
If this is the case you can take your car off the stands and check the fluid level at the master cylinder, it should be at the full line.
Also now that the wheels are back on the ground, TIGHTEN YOUR WHEEL NUTS

If you have spilled any fluid anywhere on the car wash it off immediately as it will affect the paint.

Now you may think you are done but you need to bed in the new pads. Take a drive around the block and make a few heavy stops from about 40km/h. If your breaks feel as good or better than when you started you are finished, go have a beer and admire the fact you just improved the safety of your car.

DISCLAIMER: The car I worked on was my 2008 MY09 Subaru Forester XT. This is a guide only and should be treated as such. All vehicles differ slightly and the procedure may vary due to the different design of calipers from make to make or even model to model.
PLEASE, IF YOU DO NOT FEEL COMFORTABLE WORKING ON YOUR OWN CAR I URGE YOU TO TAKE IT TO A REPUTABLE MECHANIC
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Unread 24th March 2013, 05:01 PM
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Great write-up; thanks BB!
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Unread 24th March 2013, 05:41 PM
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This is a pretty good write-up. A lot of people seem to be too intimidated to change out the brake pads themselves. It is actually a really simple, fairly quick process, with a reward of great satisfaction.
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Unread 24th March 2013, 05:45 PM
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Let me know if you want a set of 4 pots when the time comes if you don't have any lined up. I have 2 sets for sale.
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Unread 24th March 2013, 06:11 PM
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Thanks rally, that would be great, could you pm me some details on the 4 pots?
the problem with 4 pots is they wont clear my factory mags or the steel rims I've got without spacers.
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Unread 25th March 2013, 03:03 AM
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Awesome write up Brumby Boy

Regards
Mr Turbo
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Unread 25th March 2013, 03:12 AM
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My pleasure, I'm all to happy to share my knowledge around, especially as I am no longer working as a mechanic it helps to keep the information fresh in my head.

I also thought I'd add that the pads I removed are the genuine original pads, anyone want to take a stab at how many Km's I got out of them?
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Unread 25th March 2013, 03:20 AM
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117,500kms?
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Unread 25th March 2013, 04:04 AM
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