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  #11  
Old 25th January 2013, 10:55 PM
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Ratbag, can you take a photo and then I can give you an idea how to get it off. It's different to the SF and I don't have one to look at...
I now have most of my constantly live sockets running from my 2nd battery. That way I know I won't drain my main battery...
It's pretty simple to make the main ones constant, AS we do it at work though we run new wiring that's a thicker gauge to the outlet as the stock wiring can burn out pretty easily.. I wouldn't of done what Nachaluva did with the relay but that way does work..
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  #12  
Old 25th January 2013, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taza View Post
I wouldn't of done what Nachaluva did with the relay but that way does work..
I'm just a lowly hack, not a proper sparky lol

Running heavy gauge wires direct from the battery through a 30A fuse would be best, but this was easy & all I need...at least till you come over & rewire my Foz lol

Speaking of rewiring...when you do your EJ25, you should do a thread incl mating the engines wiring loom to the cars loom...
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  #13  
Old 26th January 2013, 12:10 AM
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Gidday Taza

Quote:
Originally Posted by taza View Post
Ratbag, can you take a photo and then I can give you an idea how to get it off. It's different to the SF and I don't have one to look at...
Thanks, mate. Will have to be in a couple of days. I have hurt my back. Don't even know how ...

Quote:
I now have most of my constantly live sockets running from my 2nd battery. That way I know I won't drain my main battery...
It's pretty simple to make the main ones constant, AS we do it at work though we run new wiring that's a thicker gauge to the outlet as the stock wiring can burn out pretty easily.. I wouldn't of done what Nachaluva did with the relay but that way does work..
I am always very wary about the total drain. Amperage can easily go through the roof at 12V.

Eventually, I want to mount my second battery in my trailer. Not to be used for starting (unless I remove it and use jumper leads), just for appliances, lights etc.

I may have to run a secondary trailer hook-up wire set to provide for charging from the car. Either that, or use the unused pins in the standard trailer connector. They should be good for the 5 amps or so needed for trickle charging. Don't think that the vehicle wiring loom that the trailer connector uses would be though.

Basically, I don't want the auxiliary battery in the car.
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  #14  
Old 26th January 2013, 12:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratbag View Post

Eventually, I want to mount my second battery in my trailer. Not to be used for starting (unless I remove it and use jumper leads), just for appliances, lights etc.
Have a look at the Redarc BCDC1206. Designed specifically for running a 2nd battery in a trailer, without any wiring upgrades. They have several models, but the 06 is ideal for your application.

http://www.redarc.com.au/products/ca...ery-isolators/


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  #15  
Old 26th January 2013, 02:38 AM
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Thanks for that link, SJ.

Looks promising, if one only glances very quickly at the price ...
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  #16  
Old 27th March 2013, 11:10 AM
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Has anyone done this to an SH yet?
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  #17  
Old 3rd April 2013, 08:00 AM
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I did last week before my trip. ran the fridge fine.
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  #18  
Old 29th June 2014, 02:11 AM
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Gidday Folks

I know that this thread has antique value ... , but I want to do something slightly different.

What I want to achieve is to still have the three power outlets powered on when the ignition is fully off, but I want this to be manually switchable so that I can leave either or both circuits on for minor stops, but switch them off when stopped for longer periods.

What I am proposing to do is to add a couple of standard illuminated switches either in the switch block to the right of the ignition switch, or in the two blank positions just under the centre front armrest in my SG Forester. I realise that the second position would require running some wiring from the current position of the relays to the switches and back, but that's not hard to get at in either position for the switches.

Firstly, I would have to perform the minor surgery above, with the difference being that there would now be a switch inserted between the two fixed wiring connections that are being bridged by the jumper in Wombat's write-up above.

The dash cigarette lighter circuit is fused at 15A. This circuit should have plenty of amperage to run GPS, Spot Messenger, phone, laptop car charger(6A @ 12V + and auxiliary 2A USB power port - I intend to run a 2A powered USB hub off this, and plug all the above items into that hub).

Is the second relay pictured controlling the 20A circuit to the cargo area and centre console accessory outlets? Can it be similarly wired as constant on, but manually switched?

The 20A circuit for these two outlets will have my backup battery/power supply plugged into it (about 2-3A total draw) and my fridge when moving (about 6.25A draw).

According to the Owner's Manual, fuse box positions 22 and 23 are not used. Fuse 22 is a 15A circuit for heated seats (not fitted in my car!), and Fuse 23 is listed as "empty". I haven't looked to check if there is power available to either or both of these two circuits.

I also need to find a circuit to power my Oricom UHF in-car CB. It is fused at 2A draw. Perhaps I can use either fuse 22 or 23 for power for this unit?

Any thoughts?

[EDIT]

The above is all well and good in theory. On checking the actual internal fuse box in my car, fuse positions 20, 21, 22 and 23 do not appear to exist.

There is a sort of plug where they are supposed to be located ...

FALSE ALARM: When I grovelled in the foot well, there is a little label that says these fuses are located alongside the relays on either side of the main fuse block ...

[end edit]

Last edited by Ratbag; 29th June 2014 at 02:30 AM.
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  #19  
Old 12th August 2014, 08:47 AM
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ive done a perminant live to my battery, fused of course lol
I use it just for a solar charger when the car is going to be parked up for a while, works a treat
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  #20  
Old 12th August 2014, 11:26 PM
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I also need to connect the two wires in my trailer hitch that are tied back at the connection to the car's wiring loom end.

Guess that I'll have to look up the standard wiring diagrams for a 7 pin large round, and a 7 pin flat to find out which one of the unused terminals is for reversing lights, and which is for 12V. Then connect up the appropriate wires to whatever I can find around that are inside the car.
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12v power - ignition off, accessories constant 12v, additional battery, auxiliary battery, secondary battery

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