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  #11  
Old 4th November 2008, 10:18 PM
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Rally Rally is offline
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And a bucket for the kids to make sandcastles with while you extract the car!
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  #12  
Old 5th November 2008, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin View Post
^ that's correct. It is recommended that you do not wrap your thumbs around the steering wheel because, if you do experience backlash, the spokes could break your thumbs.
It is less of an issue today with power steering, but a genuine problem in earlier years.
My Uncle had his thumb broken when driving a Blitz (WW2 4x4 truck, very popular with graziers after the war). And in talking to a friend who drove one in the war, he said keeping ones thumbs out was... well, if you didn't, you soon learnt to.
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  #13  
Old 2nd February 2009, 07:53 AM
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i find when driving me foz im sand and around sandy tracks, my car goes best if i keep it in low range the whole time and try and keep the revs at around 3500rpm. when i go up big sand dunes try and get a big run up, i usually try and hit the dune at about 45km/h (about 3rd gear in low rang) just before i hit the dune change back to 1st and put me foot flat to the floor, the revs usually hit about 5000rpm+ but driving this way has got me to the top of some BIG sand dunes.
when driving in tracks with big ruts try and avoid them by driving with one tyer in the middle, this is because if the rutts are big and subaru's dont have massive ground clearance it can resut in big problems.
thats about all i have driven in so all i can coment on....
(by the way 1st post on offroadsuabrus.com)
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  #14  
Old 3rd February 2009, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason tincey View Post
(by the way 1st post on offroadsuabrus.com)
Welcome aboard.

(fill out your profile when you get a chance)
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  #15  
Old 8th April 2009, 04:53 PM
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What pressures do folk run on outback gravel and bulldust?
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  #16  
Old 9th April 2009, 04:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sigmund View Post
What pressures do folk run on outback gravel and bulldust?
When I air down I usually drop to 28psi for bush tracks (normal driving is 36-38psi), but for sand driving I tent to drop a little more though.

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  #17  
Old 9th April 2009, 11:33 PM
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25-30 for moderate offroading. If it's just a dirt track I don't air down at all (38psi for street here).
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  #18  
Old 12th April 2009, 04:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr turbo View Post
When I air down I usually drop to 28psi for bush tracks (normal driving is 36-38psi)
I did a bit of bush track driving this Easter in the Grampians NP. I still have my original XT tyres, 215/55/R17 so I was a bit hesitant to drop the pressure that much. Ended up dropping it to 32psi (from 36psi) in fear that anything lower than that could result in a tyre coming off the rim... As the gravel there can get a bit chunky, the ride was very bumpy.

2 Questions:

1) Does anyone know when low pressure is too low? Specially when the tyres in question are low profile already, so not much wall to flex... This would come in handy as I would like to do a bit of sand driving next (following Kevin's suggestions and taking a shovel).

2) In large/chunky gravel, is it better for the car to go real slow (30kmh) and wear the bumps out or power along (50-60kmh) and get a slightly better ride?

Just points for further discussion I guess...

Cheers,
Pedro.
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  #19  
Old 12th April 2009, 10:55 PM
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I have done almost no sand driving but would prefer a high profile tyre with reduced pressures.

As for gravel roads, I prefer to have a reasonable amount of pressure, but below highway pressures. As for how fast, that is a very broad question because it varies a lot, and corurrugations are a further issue. The problem you will face by going too fast is that there will be at soome stage a washaway or something that is just too big to handle and then you are in real trouble. So while I give the car heaps on tarmac, on gravel I knock off a lot of speed.

I have even been caught out at on relatively benign roads, when I found a jump at 60km/h and got quite airborne. While it was fun it also goes to show that unexpected things can come from nowhere, and it could have been worse.

With corrugations, you just have to find a speed that does not shake the car apart, and there will be times when it does not matter what speed you do, the car feels like it is being shaken to death. I have found the bigger the corrugation, the harder it is to find that speed. Best thing is try and find a part of the road with less severe or no corrugations, which is in itself a never ending search. A badly corrugated road is one you are only too pleased to have behind you. The worst corrugated roads I have been on are in WA and western Queensland, with the Buchanan Hwy in WA being the worst.
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  #20  
Old 14th April 2009, 09:38 AM
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Unless you are cornering hard, your tyre will not come off the rim, even at 10psi. Modern passenger car vehicles with tubeless tyres have what is called a safety rim - a small recess for the tyre bead - designed to hold the bead in place when there is zero pressure in the tyre.

Lower tyre pressures produce a smoother ride on any rough surface. The traps or negatives are higher rolling resistance, tyre overheating with sustained high speed driving, and danger of bending/breaking the rim or damaging the sidewall if you hit something big and hard. I like to use 40psi on sealed roads and 20psi on corrugations. Rocky roads require a LOT of care with low pressure and low profile tyres - not a good mix.

If you venture off road much, a tyre pressure gauge and pump are essential items.

As has been said many times, always drive sensibly according to the road conditions, the vehicle limitations, and your skills. Never be pressured into travelling at a speed which is beyond YOUR comfort zone.
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