Body bashing to fit tyres?

Need to know if this is a really bad idea or not, Trying to fit Kumho Road Venture AT 215/75/15 with 15x7 0 offset rims onto a SG Forester. Don't have any other choices in tyre as these are the smallest without it looking silly.

Will need to flatten the seam which is covered by a bit of plastic just past the guard but want to know what to do about it hitting on the body/firewall (Shown in the picture below clearly marked with a red circle). Don't want to damage important.

By how much does it rub, a lot ?

Another way to keep the tyre from rubbing without bashing the body is to ovalize the holes where the front of the A-arms are bolted to the subframe, this will move the wheels forward. You should use some camber bolts to do the job properly so that the wheel doesn't come back on a hard shock. Just an idea....

Just from the photo, it looks to me as if the wheel has about 25-30mm difference in offset to the OEM wheel. Increasing (or decreasing) the offset of the wheel changes the effective axle length and therefore the arc inscribed by the outer edge of the tyre when lock is applied. A tyre size such as you have mentioned may fit perfectly without rubbing on a standard rim then rub badly with a change in offset (or rim width).

I have bashed, jacked, cut and welded wheel arches and guards (not on Subarus) to get wheels to fit and none of the modifications has caused structural issues with the body. You may find removing the plastic guard liner will do the job but then you'll spend a lot more time cleaning mud out from under the guards after you do those deep water crossings. If you flatten the seam, the plastic liner will probably also need modification if you want to have it back in place.

They are the wrong rims for the car. You will be increasing the track by at least 96 mm, where maximum legal increase is 25mm. Expect reduced wheel bearing life and a detrimental effect on handling. Worst case scenario is something could break at speed and you would lose control of the vehicle. So no, not a good idea.

Plenty of people run these wheels with bigger tyres, eg 225/75/15 & 235/75/15. Yes it is harder on the wheel bearings but nothing is going to fall off or break hahaha :rotfl:

The main disadvantage of 0 offset wheels is it increases rubbing on the firewall at full lock. It does this because the radius of the arc that the wheel follows when turning the steering wheel has been increased

Yes, you will need to trim the plastic covering the pinch weld & probably have to hammer flat the weld a bit too (don't grind it off, just hammer it flat). You've only got 215s (27.7") tyres so it shouldn't need much. Attached is a photo of what was done on a SH Forester with 225/70/16 (same as 225/75/15).

If you want to change wheels, popular 15” alloy wheels are KMC Bully KM708, Motegi MR139, Konig Control, OX Wheels OX817, Black Rhino Boxer, Method MR502 or 501, Sparco Terra, Team Dynamics Pro Rally, etc. The 1st two would be my choice

https://www.kmcwheels.com/wheel/44023/km708-bully

https://www.motegiracing.com/wheel/44086/mr139

https://konigwheels.com/wheels/main-line-wheels/control/

https://www.blackrhinowheels.com/truck-wheels-truck-rims-boxer.php

https://www.methodracewheels.com/collections/race-wheels/products/mr502-rally-vt-spec

https://www.ozracing.com/wheels/sparco/terra?color=white

https://www.team-dynamics.com/content/pro-rally

https://www.oxwheel.com.au/car-wheels/index.php/product/details/wheelSize/15/itemId/415/model/OX817

Some of those wheels really look good. I like the Sparco design but it would be a nightmare trying to clean mud out from the inside rim. Anyone who has driven in the Glasshouse Mountains area when it's muddy will know the joy of driving home at 60Kph to avoid the wheel wobbles due to the glue like mud hanging on the inner rim of every wheel.

Are KMC and Motegi owned by the same company or just use the same webdesigner?

edit: Ahh. same company. Nice Australian number: +61 617-3151-4200. too many 61s I reckon.