Offroad gearbox build

Low range oil feed.

So a bit of an update on the gearbox.

I decided to pull the box last weekend to check out how the internals were going since my low range and 1st gear had started to whine. I was surprised by a number of things when I opened it up.

Firstly as expected the low range whine was caused by slight surface damage on the gear teeth of the input low range gear and the adjacent gear. I did this after multiple attempts at a very steep climb. Being right up the front of the box oil would have been limited and damage would likely occurred from hot heavily loaded gears. There was no evidence of gears looking burnt in colour as I had heard others being worried of which was also interesting.

The 1st gear whine was more interesting. I could not see any evidence of tooth damage at all, no indication of anything that could cause the noise. Investigating further I found the shaft bearing on the upper 5th gear was in bad shape. It was full of what looked like heavily deteriorated oil. There were also periodic wear marks around the bore and shaft. I put this down as the cause of the noise as this bearing is spinning fastest in 1st gear and is stationary in 5th gear.
I had been warned by a Subaru wrecker that 5th gear dries out during hill climbs which I had not taken any notice of as it seemed plain ludicrous that 5th gear at the back of the box would dry out when all the oil had run to the back. Now I am less sceptical.
The 5th gear bearing is fed by oil flicking up in the transfer case, this oil lands in a plastic channel and runs forward being fed in to a hole in the end of the input shaft. If the gearbox is facing up a steep enough uphill the oil will not flow forwards and lubrication may not be sufficient. This is only my theory however I feel it has some validity.
The other factor that could play a part is that I put the pickup for my low range oil feed at the very back of my gearbox. My thinking was that going up hill all the oil would run to the back of the box so it was the ideal pick up location. I did not however look closely at the transfer case housing. As the below image shows there is no way for the oil to enter the transfer case until it reaches the hight of the centre of the lower lay shaft.

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Now if my oil feed is removing all the oil from the transfer case, which is not able to re-enter the transfer case unless on the flat or slightly uphill then there is no oil left to be flicked up into the oil feed for the upper shaft. Again just a theory but I dont have other ideas...

Whilst I had the box out I decided to redesign my complete oil feed for the low range. starting with the pickup.
The new pickup collects oil from the lowest point in front of the transfer case, just below 5th gear.

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I didnt do a very pretty job with the pipe bending but it works and still has good flow which is the important bit.

Next was the feed to the low range gears. I previous feed just dumped oil into the top of the case which was pretty pointless as it was very unlikely that any of the oil would hit the gears. I wanted my new design to feed oil into the meshing side of the gears just before they mesh however this was not possible with out I high pressure squirting jet and was just to difficult.
As a compromise I decided to feed oil to all four gears and 1st gear as well to ensure it was also protected. I soldered the 5 feeds into one pipe

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Again not pretty but functional.

The next part was the tricky yet I feel most important bit. I hooked up my oil feeds to my gearbox oil pump, pump input into a bucket of oil, had the battery at operating voltage and switched the pump on. This was to check the pump matched the feeds, that the flow was even through all feeds at all slopes and that the oil was hitting the gears and coating them well at all gearbox slopes. I slowly closed the tubes at the ends of the feeds to control how much flow goes where. This was a very messy tedious process however I was very happy with the finished product.

Finally it was tidying it up all after the box was assembled.
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Unfortunately I didnt have replacement low range gears so all this work will have to be redone at some point in time however I will hopefully have an SG box as a platform by then. Good think I thoroughly enjoy playing Subaru gearbox Lego.

I also took a few other pics of the gearbox so I figured I would put them in as well.

Checking front diff contact pattern, also shows the amount I removed from the 4.44 gear to get it to fit with the 1.59 low
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Clearance between the trimmed low range synchro sleeve and the trimmed 4.44 gear
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The trimmed l series synchro sleeve in the sf selector fork (tiny amount of material removed to fit synchro sleeve) and trimmed l series selector fork feet.

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And finally one of everything in the case.
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Hopefully this info will prove helpful for people trying to fit low series low and 4.44 final drive.
 
Awesome work Dedman!

I love how DIY that oil feed system looks! It just goes to show that there are many ways to skin a cat so to speak!

What oil pump are you using? I need to upgrade mine as I'm only using an old MY fuel pump - it's only on when I need it but even so it's not really designed for that use with gear oil...

Seeing what you've done with the 4.44:1 diff makes me want to have the same in my locking centre diff box - it's just more time and money, plus I've only just got it back in one piece recently.

Maybe "next time" you can invest in a small pipe bending tool from fleabay - it'd make those bends look awesome and would be quite a neat site to see.

Another question, how did you seal the oil feeds in the case? I've got threaded barbs in mine, I'm not sure if you've seen my gearbox build and I don't want to bombard your build thread with my images. There's a link to where it basically all starts in my build thread: Mashed gears here and the rebuild from here onwards ;)

I do love playing with gearboxes - I'd be very keen to see how an EA81 with a mild cam, MPFI fuel injection and one of these trick gearboxes would go offroad and around town. I can't believe so many people overlook the gearbox mods for better returns in offroad ability and possibly fuel economy once larger tyres are fitted!

Cheers

Bennie
 
What oil pump are you using?
One of theses. Although I am running it in series with a massive resistor as the pump is way overkill for the job. The resistor in series also has the benefit that it primes really fast then slows right down when the oil gets to the pump.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-AQU...sfer-Marine-/190837263120?hash=item2c6ec98b10

Seeing what you've done with the 4.44:1 diff makes me want to have the same in my locking centre diff box

Its so worth it!!

Maybe "next time" you can invest in a small pipe bending tool from fleabay - it'd make those bends look awesome and would be quite a neat site to see.

Yeah might be a good idea. As I have the pipes as one piece through the case there are limited options to do the bending using there is limited space in the case. I would be able to do a few neat ones but some would have to be as they are now.

Another question, how did you seal the oil feeds in the case? I've got threaded barbs in mine, I'm not sure if you've seen my gearbox build..

Yes I have read it all. It is where I got the inspiration to do the feeds this way :) Thanks for that. The sealing is done by the pipes through the case being tight then the cavity in the case wall they pass through being filled with resin. I pressure tested the box to 5 psi when I was done and no leaks. Flexing of the case under load over time and this may change but being at the top of the box, small leaks would just be oil sweating anyway. When I do my final SG based box I will probably go for the threaded option.

I can't believe so many people overlook the gearbox mods for better returns in offroad ability and possibly fuel economy once larger tyres are fitted!

I agree completely, downside is that they are expensive but by far the best performance improving mod I have done for off road. I would go as far as to say its the best value for money offroading mod I have done so far, expensive but gains are huge.
 
Question:

The shim on the input shaft, what's it there for?

Asking as I've found my setup has quite a bit of play between the input shaft (low range's first driven gear) and the synchro. Removing the shim reduces this a little bit but I feel that it still needs to come back further to reduce the gap.

There's no way of doing this from what I can see (in the time frame I'm working against) either. Thought I'd ask to see if you've noticed at all.

Also, with the Issue I'm having at the moment I'm admiring your shaven selector fork and hub setup - hard to do, or is a lathe required?

Cheers

Bennie
 
From what I understand it controls the play between the synchro cone rings (the gold bits, not sure of correct name) and the synchro hub and gear. If the gap is to small the cone ring will constantly rub quickly wearing out the synchro, to big and its function may be somewhat reduced and there is a risk that the three little sliding selector things will pop out or come off the springs which hold them which would be very bad.
Assuming the gap is correct between synchro hub and the last low range gear (no guarantee as we are using a modified synchro hub) then this should ideally be matched for the input side gap.
The input side gap on mine was on the large side with the shim and to tight without it so I left it in.

I didn't really take many pics that show it well but here is my gap on low range side, it is also a tad big due to the way I modified the hub to fit my top lay shaft but not by much.
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Also make sure you have the top lay shaft pushed all the way forwards when setting up the gap. Obvious I know but I missed it a few times and was scratching my head as to why the gap had grown...

As for the way I have done the low range synchro sleeve, I didnt use a lathe at all building my box. Most advanced tools were a grinder and a drill, only because I did not have anything better at my disposal and I kind of wanted to prove it was possible to build a box using only home handy man tools. Anyway the way I removed the material was to mount the hub and selector ring on the top lay shaft from the l series box (which I no longer needed) and sit it in the case so it could spin on its bearings. Then I gave the shaft a spin and used a grinder to remove metal from the sleeve. Holding the grinder at the right angle causes the shaft to spin faster and faster meaning that material was removed evenly around the entire sleeve resulting in a perfectly round but reduced diameter sleeve. I also had a hose trickling water over the sleeve to keep it cool the whole time. Yes I know highly unintelligent having water flying everywhere using a 240V angle grinder but I had and earthed angle grinder and some earthing leads around my wrists as a precaution and modern RCDs are pretty good anyway.... But obviously I take not responsibility if anyone tries this and dies and highly recommend not doing so...
Removing material from the selector fork was easy. Just mark it out and get a grinder in there, no precision needed. Trimming the selector fork feet was a bit more tricky, just some very careful slow grinding to get the right profile to match the synchro selector sleeve.

As to your question is it hard to do, I would say it is time consuming and fiddly but not overly hard. Took me an afternoon to get it right. Basically you trim the selector sleeve until the fork just fits over it. then trim the fork to clear where needed then trim and fit the feet. Finally check nothing is rubbing and trim further where necessary.

All that being said the only reason I went down this path was to fit the 4.44. I cant see an advantage of not using the standard components if your 4.11 is already trimmed to fit them. Of course I dont know your problem exactly so I am sure you have good reason :)
 
Good to see i was alone with this excessive gap.. ive found it causes me to sometimes get stuck in low or high range. Not really an issue as i just drive forward or backward slightly and its all sorted.
 
I've removed that shim on my low range setup. No issue so far and low range works a treat.

What caused my issue of not being able to select low range in the first place was that I had the washer on the low range selector fork as it was in the Phase 1 gearbox. The Phase 2 gearbox does not use this washer and this caused the cases to clamp the low range selector fork in place where it was - kind of lucky that I put it in high range in the first place! Kind of...

Cheers

Bennie
 
You just reminded me of another thing I did. The 99+ boxes had the return to centre gear selector springs inside the box where as the RA has the external return to centre spring. I took the whole return to centre arrangement from the old box transfer case and put it in the new one.

Just was wondering where the selector spring is on the shifter rod on the new style??

My plan is to swap a phase 1 DCCD and transfer case onto a phase 2 FXT transmission. I am also swapping in the helical front diff. I have another question. My transfer case has been ripped apart and there are 2 thrust washers. I am assuming they go on either side of the DCCD center diff. However ever phase 1 parts manual (non DDCD) makes no mention of thrust washers there. Can you confirm this?? Great modifications, love to see this old school hot rodding.
 
Just was wondering where the selector spring is on the shifter rod on the new style??

For newer boxes all the return to centre springs are in the reverse checker. You will need to swap this complete assembly to your dccd transfer case housing. This is the part I am talking about.

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My plan is to swap a phase 1 DCCD and transfer case onto a phase 2 FXT transmission. I am also swapping in the helical front diff. I have another question. My transfer case has been ripped apart and there are 2 thrust washers. I am assuming they go on either side of the DCCD center diff. However ever phase 1 parts manual (non DDCD) makes no mention of thrust washers there. Can you confirm this?? Great modifications, love to see this old school hot rodding.[/QUOTE]

I am assuming you are talking about shims 27 and 30 in this image. These are used to take up any gaps between diff/transfer gears and the housing as a result of manufacturing differences and gasket thicknesses.
https://s1196.photobucket.com/user/forester1999/media/transfercase.jpg.html

All subaru manuals I have ever read have instructions on how to measure the required shim thicknesses...
 
I'd also suggest looking at getting a dual range gearbox. They are vastly superior to a single range & will open up a heap of new tracks you previously thought not possible in a Subaru, esp with a front LSD & DCCD!

Check out the many import companies importing car parts from Japan. There have been a heap recently bought in the US for $600 USD delivered!!

Make sure you get the SF Forester non turbo manual 97-02, it's the only one with the good 1.447 low range
 
For newer boxes all the return to centre springs are in the reverse checker. You will need to swap this complete assembly to your dccd transfer case housing. This is the part I am talking about.

Although I don't have a DCCD, I did find out the return to center spring and linkage bolts and fittings will work on the dual range phase I ej gearboxes, if you take them all from a single range gen 1 liberty/legacy

Not identical parts and a little mix and match is needed but that's what is under my forester, replaced most of it after an accident.
 
Thanks for the clarification, i did figure out the shim situation. It was apparent which shim went where from the manual. Basically I kept everything from the phase 1 transfer case together, shift fork, shims, DCCD center diff. I did keep the old reverse lockout that came with the phase 1 transfer case. I thought this would keep the alignment between the old style shifter fork. However this did not give the desired effect. It is sloppy on the first second gear side even with the external spring. Reading further into it the shim on the reverse lockout is used move the spring tension sideways in the shifter. Will give that a shot first, otherwise I can pull it out and swap to the new style of reverse lockout.

Nice project I have watched some videos, pretty impressive for a wagon !!
 
Doing a bit of an update I think 5 speed DCCD shims could use a refresh does anyone know where these can be purchased locally? The look the same design a 2004 USDM STI DCCD but has less plates can anyone confirm this?
https://www.mooresport.com/en/product/dccd-rebuild-13/?v=3e8d115eb4b3
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I found a good website that has the 5 speed DCCD clutches out of the Czech Republic along with a magnet that says it clamps 30% stronger, you off-road guys might be interested in that?
https://www.kotoucgearboxes.com/produkt/subaru-dccd-overhaul-kit-wrx-62

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https://www.kotoucgearboxes.com/produkt/subaru-dccd-magnet-upgrade-29

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Here is a good reference for working on the 5 speed box.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLfFqANXc83sLMAsrlQ5Jx_uPYDcSPLxK_
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I spoke with a very helpful person from Rallitech straight to the horses mouth. The mechanic claimed that they were similar style clutches but different from the GC8 5 speed box. Luckily he had a set laying around from Japan. I was able to scoop the DCCD clutch kit for $415, this is like hens teeth trying to find. They have a couple more if anyone is interested here?
 
It was actually Rallispec where I got the clutches. I got the DCCD all reassembled again with the new style clutches they looked exactly the same from Kotouc
 
How did the old clutch packs compare to the new one? Any obvious signs of wear or differences in thickness?

Cheers

Bennie
 
How did the old clutch packs compare to the new one? Any obvious signs of wear or differences in thickness?

Cheers

Bennie
Yes mine had a fair bit of wear one of the plates has almost no line left in it. The new ones have quite a bit deeper grooves with a radius should be smoother with better lock up. Will take some pics. Any of you in North America get the Low Range boxes, where did you get them from?
 
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