Using recovery gear

jon_slider said:
thanks for all the input
sounds like my outback belongs on pavement :)

and yes, I do think that is actually a tow strap in the video, and Maxtrax might have been more effective...
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Eh, I would not say that:poke:especially since it is H6 and will climb easier that the VW I saw on some of the youtube videos.

There are many possibilities open to you depending on what trails you would like to drive and how often. These range from mild mods like mine to full blown mods with new bumper (even winch!) and a nice lift all without keeping the vehicle nicely roadworthy.

I do not think you can ever recreate the nice AA, BO, and DA of the VW but the OB needs only tires to be excellent on regular dirt roads and it can hold its own on trails depending on trail rating and OB mods.

Btw, I am not sure how long the rear vLSD lasts. On the TB, which has 128k, I assume it is gone though it does not matter since it is the OB that goes off-road.
 
I suppose that the eye of the eye bolt is the weakest link, hence my soft shackles.

As for hitches. Well...a hitch is usually rated for only 5,000 lb or less on a Subie. And how strong is the pin that holds the recovery insert in the hitch? That would be my chief concern with those recovery inserts.
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You misunderstand the point I was making. The higher the rating of the snatch strap the LESS stretch there is for a given weight. If you use a very heavy snatch strap on a lightweight Subaru, there will be very little stretch which means MORE shock loading on the parts you mention. So they are MORE likely to break.

Also, you absolutely want the snatch strap to be the weakest link in the chain. Much better for a soft strap to go flying around than a metal component!
 
As I said, 17,500lb is the lowest rated brand name actual recovery strap I could find here.

:poke::discomonkey::lildevil:
 
Those hitch mounted recovery points (slide in to the receiver) are suitable even on large 4wds, it would not be a cause for concern using it as a recovery point. The block applies the load evenly across the length of the pin, it is unlikely to bend unlike the method of shoving the strap into the receiver and securing it by the pin, that more often than not bends the pin
 
When I say it does not exist it means it does not exist or is so hard to find that a couple of hours online are not enough. What is so hard to understand? Not on Amazon not on ebay not on any online store.

You get ATV straps and then jump at 17500 and up. Oryou get cheap no brand who knows what straps. You cannot assume that all markets are the same as yours.

Thans for the insert comment.
 
havachat said:
Hey Nachaluva maybe you can start exporting Subi rated snatch straps !
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And, better, offroad bumpers built primarily to optimize AA, not as bullbars. Someone made a great plastic one for himself, paying 200 for a replacement generic bumper, then cut and welded it. Added OB springs and small lift to his 2011 Legacy H6 and drove two classic difficult Moab trails. His is the most amazing Subie I have seen to date in terms of capability gain for mods done and price.
 
I might start doing front bars one day, but have so much to get done before that.

I'm happy to ship out a Ridge Ryder 5T snatch strap to you, that's what I use. At a guess might be $100 delivered
 
^ If lower rated components are so hard to find in the USA, probably wise to ship an entire set - snatch, load distribution strap and tow strap/tree protector, plus two rated shackles for the LDS to tie down point connections.

Just a thought ...

.
 
duncanm said:
*cough* I think your google-fu is lacking. Try searching for 'kinetic recovery rope', or 'kinetic recovery strap'

https://www.bubbarope.com/professional-recovery-rope

https://www.masterpull.com/kinetic-recovery-super-yanker-kobra/

recommends their 3/4" version.

No need to go low-rating for distribution straps or shackles -- the bigger the better there, I think.
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Great, you found one 10,000 lb rope. So something in the ballpark EXISTS. But I am not sure how that one rope justifies your google comments. :rotfl:And it is not like I searched for my strap and bought it yesterday. If you want me to put my comment in past tense you need to do better than find a single rope in the entire ATV to 17.5 range. :poke:

The best strap for me is a different question. Chances I need a strap unless I am really badly stuck are very slim. That would likely be mud in the unlikely scenario I do certain trails in Monsoon season. Three times my typical trail weight is 13,200. Three times my heavy trail weight is above 14k. And if you read the link I posted earlier, you will know that 300% of loaded weight applies to a badly stuck vehicle on a flat surface. Add a little uphill and my 17.5k looks a great deal better than 10k. Guess a 13-14k would hit the jackpot: or a combo of the 10 and the 17.
 
Hang on - I'm trying to help here, and I found those two in 2min of searching.

If you look at those ropes - I don't think you can compare breaking ratings with that of traditional straps.

If you read the masterpull website, they say the 10000lb rope is recommended for 500 to 2500lb vehicles, the 19000lb rope for 2000 to 4500lb vehicles.

Very similar to the bubba rope sizes/ratings.


Whatever.
 
duncanm said:
Hang on - I'm trying to help here, and I found those two in 2min of searching.

If you look at those ropes - I don't think you can compare breaking ratings with that of traditional straps.

If you read the masterpull website, they say the 10000lb rope is recommended for 500 to 2500lb vehicles, the 19000lb rope for 2000 to 4500lb vehicles.

Very similar to the bubba rope sizes/ratings.


Whatever.
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No worries;). The thing worth discussing is exactly the recommendations. Is it about strap vs rope or about different methodology in calculating the recommended numbers?

I think that it is useful to look at Wrangler weight vs what is available for Wranglers. The obvious conclusion is that US recommendations are for much higher ratings than Australian ones.

Now, what does this mean about the methodologies used? What does it mean for heavy duty frames vs cars?

This is why I am not going to lose any sleep over mine.
 
I do take your point about there being a hole between 10k and 17k lb-- but as others have said, you're probably safer with the lighter strap -- much less likelyhood of tearing bits off your car o distorting your frame.

The trick, as with many things, is to be aware of what gear you have and work within its limitations.
 
MiddleAgeSubie, I'm afraid you still don't get it. The weak point needs to be the rope. The recovery points you have on your Subaru are very weak & prone to being torn out. Using your example of fully loaded stuck in mud, that is even more reason to use a lighter rope as the chances of damaging your car are even higher.

We're trying to help, at the end of the day all we can do is give advice, it's up to you to accept it or not...
 
NachaLuva said:
MiddleAgeSubie, I'm afraid you still don't get it. The weak point needs to be the rope. The recovery points you have on your Subaru are very weak & prone to being torn out. Using your example of fully loaded stuck in mud, that is even more reason to use a lighter rope as the chances of damaging your car are even higher.

We're trying to help, at the end of the day all we can do is give advice, it's up to you to accept it or not...
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Lol. I get it. I did not open the discussion, but only listed what I have.

I am almost always alone so I am not in the habit of getting into questionable stuff. Logically, then, I have not needed any rope/strap yet and I am not in a rush to spend 80$ on a rope that is advertised for vehicles up to 2,500.

I am not sure why the eye bolt would be "very weak." Weaker than traditional 4x4 points probably it is, but if the Subaru manual says that it is for recovery in sand and mud, I am pretty sure it can work pretty well.
 
Nice info here. After i got some fun time with local subaru club i found out that my front towing/recovery points cant fit shackles. Well passenger side can but not driver side as they have not round holes there. So umm can i just make them round there and use as proper recovery points with shackles or i need bolt there some other recovery points.
 
scalman said:
Nice info here. After i got some fun time with local subaru club i found out that my front towing/recovery points cant fit shackles. Well passenger side can but not driver side as they have not round holes there. So umm can i just make them round there and use as proper recovery points with shackles or i need bolt there some other recovery points.
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If you have a better look at them, you'll note one is significantly larger and more reinforced than the other. This is the tow point and should be the primary one used for recovery if you need it.

The others are just tie-down points for transportation and are a fair bit weaker.

Have a look at your owners manual and it'll also tell you which is which.
 
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