Limited slip diffs

Something got lost in the translation from Russian to English
 
Rally said:
Something got lost in the translation from Russian to English
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I like the phrase “from the wheel enjoying the most traction” or something to that effect!

Cheers

Bennie
 
one guy with forester went to russia bought this and put it there and just drove back , its no other way we can import something from there
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LSD-Limite...rear-gear-R160-VAL-racing-Screw-/302625009764
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it was 70% model. works pretty well on hills or just slippery situations. doesnt work on diagonals of course, well he said its kinda worked but im not sure.
now he have some problems with car i guess with that locker , he said it was something like axle popping out of diff when its engaging sometimes or something like that.
 
I wouldn't spend money on a cheap helical differential as a very good brand like Quaife makes unlimited warranty on theirs for a few hundred more bucks. I have the front since 2006 and the rear since 2013.

My 2 cents that worth much more....!
 
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well prices and makers that available to ones not available or much more expencive to other areas. few hundred more bucks :rotfl: thats how much it costs. so its like double cost then . poor people dont see point in that. and its dont work in diagonal . yours 100% ?
 
If it breaks then it’s money lost. Who wants to be stranded with a broken car in the bush? I’d rather keep the car standard if it retains reliability.
 
agreed. but those not brake just that easy. and russians dont drive lightly.for now they doing ok i guess. its better then nothing on old forester that have nothing else.
still just one person from hundred from this our local club bought it .
 
Geez I’ve seen those videos of Russian drivers. I wouldn’t feel safe in a main battle tank on their roads. I guess you’re right, if a car can survive those guys, it will survive just about anything.
 
lol yh they drive like that with standard foresters low with city tires. they just floor it .
as one legend was saying
If-in-doubt-flat-out-Colin-McRae.jpg
 
El Freddo has an OBX helical that apparently needs to be rebuilt. If you added the cost of the mechanic (thanks to his aknowledge he doesn't need one), then it would be far more expensive than a Quaife.

Cheap is expensive....
 
jf1sf5 said:
El Freddo has an OBX helical that apparently needs to be rebuilt. If you added the cost of the mechanic (thanks to his aknowledge he doesn't need one), then it would be far more expensive than a Quaife.

Cheap is expensive....
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True. But also doing thorough research would find that this work needs to be done prior to install. I’m sure it’s still doing something, just not as quickly as it once was.

I’m looking forward to pulling it apart. I’ve not had a helical diff apart and I can’t quite get my head around how all the worm gears work.

And LSD isn’t a locker by any means!

Cheers

Bennie
 
Be very careful disassembling the helical diff. Can be almost as hard reassembling it as getting all the smoke back into a blown circuit!
 
Rally said:
Interesting. I note you said your engine has a fairly even torque curve. Perhaps that is where a good part of the explanation lies.
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Yes I think it might have something to do with it.

I also think the weight of the vehicle and what I carry (e.g. Subaxtreme front and rear bar are heavy, so is 2nd battery, and at times I carry 40 lt water, 20 lt fuel, slab of beer, case of wine and food) has a lot of effect on the 20 KG centre diff. It just isn't as harsh as I expected it to be from reading "accounts" on line. It was installed by All Drive Subaroo, and they thought it would be a good match for the weight of the vehicle.
 
ABFoz said:
This one is a decently priced aftermarket:
for SUBARU REAR axle gear VA2 R160 Diff Lock ATB LSD VAL | eBay

I haven't heard of anyone who has installed it yet. I am assuming though that since they love their Subarus up there, they get some sort of a following. They cover all Subaru models up to 2018.

I usually just buy Japanese aftermarkets and with the previous non-Subarus, I just went with Cusco and plated LSDs. The one on the link might be worth a try considering that the price is a quarter of that of most branded ones. Cheers.
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All subaru models? Is the R160 rear diff size in most everything from, say, 2010-2018?
I'm looking for some sort of LSD for my 2015 Legacy/outback US model
Thanks!
 
Zuuma said:
All subaru models? Is the R160 rear diff size in most everything from, say, 2010-2018?
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Yes, well not exactly. There are 2 different R160 Subaru differentials. The 5 bolt which is the most common and the 1 bolt.

The R160 has been used since...at least 30 years !
 
jf1sf5 said:
The R160 has been used since...at least 30 years
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Since the early 80’s with the five bolt. So we’re looking at 40 years. No struggle to find an R160 diff! Ratio is the important bit.

Cheers

Bennie
 
I have a Suretrac rear LSD which has been sitting on the shelf now for ages which I had planned to use in my L Series wagon, but do you think I can find a pair of snap-ring stub axles anywhere on this planet?? I have given up. I have contacted every man and his dog, I have advertised wanted ads etc, they are just impossible to find. The rear end of the L series sucks, its all rare & expensive parts for brakes and diffs if you want something better.
 
ratters said:
I have a Suretrac rear LSD which has been sitting on the shelf now for ages which I had planned to use in my L Series wagon, but do you think I can find a pair of snap-ring stub axles anywhere on this planet?? I have given up. I have contacted every man and his dog, I have advertised wanted ads etc, they are just impossible to find. The rear end of the L series sucks, its all rare & expensive parts for brakes and diffs if you want something better.
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Have you looked at using the liberty male stub axles to fit the diff? Or have the L stub axle units welded to plug the hole (if shaving the retainer plug down to just be bolted in place to seal the stub axle hole doesn’t work) then have a groove shaved into the stub axle to fit the C clip in place.

Push in and go.

Those factory clip in units you’re chasing were only on the RS turbo and many were thrown out when swapping rear shafts. The then “new” male rear shafts slipped straight in no worries. As you’ve found, they’re worse than hen’s teeth!

Cheers

Bennie
 
As far as i have been able to research, I should even be able to use standard N/A Gen1 liberty stubs as they had them too? But even those cars appear to have really dried up in the last few years. Also seen the odd early GC8 diffs for sale with stub axles poking out of them.

I didnt know that @El_Freddo , about being able to modify the bolt in stubs? I have a spare L Series diff in my parts car and I have a mig and a lathe so if its as simple as cutting a grove for a snap ring I could do that easily. That of course begs the question where am I going to find a pair of snap rings! I suppose I could make them of course if it came to that. You have me interested now anyway!
 
ratters said:
As far as i have been able to research, I should even be able to use standard N/A Gen1 liberty stubs as they had them too? But even those cars appear to have really dried up in the last few years. Also seen the odd early GC8 diffs for sale with stub axles poking out of them.
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The NA Gen1 diff stubs are exactly the same as the L series and MY units. The early GC8 diffs are the same. The clip in solid units are specifically RS turbo units.

The later model rear shafts that poke into the diff will work so long as you don’t need the longer LSD single unit for one side. I don’t know how that works or why it’s needed.
You might need a different oil seal for this swap - look into it because I think you don’t but I’m not 100% sure.

Cheers

Bennie
 
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