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  #21  
Unread 28th January 2017, 01:27 AM
Jeremiahs22 Jeremiahs22 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by casperfromholland View Post
you are not considering a manual dualrange?
I am not because it would cost a ton to build a dual range tranny that can handle the torque. It's much cheaper to make an auto survive baja than a manual. Just have to keep the auto cool. I think my dream tranny would be dual range, dccd 6 speed with ppg gears and dog engagement haha.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jf1sf5 View Post
Do you keep the oem MPT 4EAT or do you upgrade to the VTD ?
Was planning on keeping it, but never looked at VTD. I have never felt let down by the MPT though. I'd be a little scared of rear diff temperatures running the VTD with an r160 and 30+ inch tires. What do you think?

Quote:
Originally Posted by NachaLuva View Post
Awesome, you really are pushing the boundaries!

I'd be happy to make a couple of suggestions if you like...
Please do! Don't hesitate to throw your two cents in!
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  #22  
Unread 28th January 2017, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremiahs22 View Post
Was planning on keeping it, but never looked at VTD. I have never felt let down by the MPT though. I'd be a little scared of rear diff temperatures running the VTD with an r160 and 30+ inch tires. What do you think?
The VTD is an excellent auto and might be needed to handle the extra power. Have you done the centre diff lock mod yet?

Quote:
Please do! Don't hesitate to throw your two cents in!
Just a couple of suggestions. The engine crossmember will receive a huge amount of force, not just in a lateral direction but also twisting, from the suspension. The longer suspension arms will multiply the force. I would vastly over engineer it so it can handle hitting a large bump at speed. I think the 2 sides need to be joined along the full length at least along the back if not fully boxed.

The LCA rear bush spacer looks very nice but doesnt have enough meat on the side pieces. I would do a solid piece without the cutouts. The weight saving is less than a cup of coffee lol.

I believe in over engineering anything that receives a lot of force & I'm sure when you're finished the build you'll be dong some awesome "adventurous" trips lol
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  #23  
Unread 28th January 2017, 03:58 PM
Jeremiahs22 Jeremiahs22 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NachaLuva View Post
The VTD is an excellent auto and might be needed to handle the extra power. Have you done the centre diff lock mod yet?

Just a couple of suggestions. The engine crossmember will receive a huge amount of force, not just in a lateral direction but also twisting, from the suspension. The longer suspension arms will multiply the force. I would vastly over engineer it so it can handle hitting a large bump at speed. I think the 2 sides need to be joined along the full length at least along the back if not fully boxed.

The LCA rear bush spacer looks very nice but doesnt have enough meat on the side pieces. I would do a solid piece without the cutouts. The weight saving is less than a cup of coffee lol.

I believe in over engineering anything that receives a lot of force & I'm sure when you're finished the build you'll be dong some awesome "adventurous" trips lol
Thanks for your suggestions! I had done the diff lock mod to my old forester, and still have the resistor pack i made, but I never put it in this forester because It has done an impeccable job at locking up when needed. I hardly used the switch in my old forester because it made little difference unless I was on ice. The VTD I will look further into..

I agree with you on the upper A-arm mounts, and what you have suggested is actually what I had planned, and even had back pieces tacked on for a while. But i think you may be happy to see what I have decided to go with for the upper mounts instead of using those bits. I'll post pics tonight after I have it tacked together.

I do agree with you about the rear bushing mount as well; I was having fun with CAD just making the design, I wasn't shooting for weight savings haha. I think when you see how I'm planning on using it, you'll agree that it's going to be totally fine.
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  #24  
Unread 28th January 2017, 08:11 PM
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Yeah I'm sure you'll be doing lots of design alterations as you progress with the build. looking forward to seeing how you go
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  #25  
Unread 28th January 2017, 10:17 PM
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duncanm duncanm is offline
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Would've thought a standard 4EAT from a JDM Legacy GTB (Gen3) or GT (Gen4) or similar would be a good starting point. They dealt with 280hp (turbo) or 250hp (3.0L) out of the box.

USDM got the 2.5L Gen4 turbo in Auto -- too easy.

Gen3 certainly had a 'sport shift' mode that supported full manual operation, so I'd be surprised if you needed to change control systems.
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  #26  
Unread 30th January 2017, 02:55 AM
Jeremiahs22 Jeremiahs22 is offline
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Alright I did a little bit this weekend after making the most of the warm weather. First I cut up the subframe tremendously and bent a tube:

DSC01001 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

Tacked on some tabs:

DSC01003 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

A little mockup to ensure full droop would be obtainable without the upper heims hitting the tube they are on:

DSC01002 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

I then began to bend the piece of tubing that will go around the back of the transmission so that i could get the mounts figured out, but apparently when they say "up to .095 DOM" can be bent with this bender, they weren't lying. I need to get a new bottle jack now:

DSC01010 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

The shaft is so bent that I can't retract it at all, so the tubing is stuck under tension. I left it for tomorrow. The plan now is to either get rid of the remaining laser cut subframe pieces and replace with DOM, or box it in and reinforce it with a small amount of DOM since it's only holding the engine and rack.
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  #27  
Unread 4th February 2017, 01:33 AM
Jeremiahs22 Jeremiahs22 is offline
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I made some awesome progress today! I managed to get a good start on the arms:

DSC01020 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

DSC01021 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

I initially had 15.5" of travel, but after moving the upper mounts out about .5" I now have 19"!!! I think I may strap it at 18" because the upper arm would be under a lot of force when drooped far enough for 19":

20170203_184038 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

20170203_184100 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

You can see up there what the final shape of the upper arm is. I'll gusset the triangle where the uniball is and that's where the shock will mount.
Here are some shots looking at full bump:
With fender:

DSC01031 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

Fender removed showing a couple inches un touched to the chassis:

DSC01032 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

And with the tire (30" dia.) touching:

DSC01033 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

But the upper arm still has a lot of clearance:

DSC01039 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

So I'll be needing to make about 3 inches of tire clearance up top.
Finally, using a level app I have determined that the caster is right where I wanted it, at 7 degrees. The camber at ride height is showing 4 degrees, but that can be adjusted out. The CV angles are golden, and ultimately I am very happy with this.
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  #28  
Unread 4th February 2017, 03:07 AM
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Kevin Kevin is offline
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Starting to take shape for sure!
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  #29  
Unread 4th February 2017, 08:40 AM
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jf1sf5 jf1sf5 is offline
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What are your cv axles ?

Will you go double wishbone rear too ?
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  #30  
Unread 4th February 2017, 10:15 PM
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NachaLuva NachaLuva is offline
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7deg of caster! haha that's brilliant!
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