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  #21  
Unread 24th February 2011, 03:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djulpan View Post
This is a huge breakthrough for me, because usually I am **** at this sort of thing,. but the ECU laptop interface makes this easy. The idea of having on borad diagnostics at all times is fantastic.
Isn't technology wonderful.
Well done mate.

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  #22  
Unread 24th February 2011, 04:44 AM
oneillium oneillium is offline
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What program/interface do you use to connect to your ECU?
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  #23  
Unread 24th February 2011, 05:27 AM
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Question New thread needed.

We could do with a thread on these systems, how to connect up, read them, etc.
Also, how to program to change engine operation, etc.
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  #24  
Unread 24th February 2011, 06:08 AM
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While I know a bit about pullings engines apart and working on cars in general, I tend to steer clear of any involved re-mapping of ECU software. There are any number of so called experts who cannot get it right. I've had a look at my Impreza's ecu because it runs a Haltech and you can change everything on that ecu, and do data logging and so on. I have played around with the launch control and even doing that may or may not have affected normal engine operations. Unless you really know what you are doing, or have someone with you who does, I'd leave it to the people who know what they are doing. Not that there are many of them.
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  #25  
Unread 24th February 2011, 07:59 AM
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Dulagarl Dulagarl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneillium View Post
What program/interface do you use to connect to your ECU?
The H6 has a VIPEC V 88 ECU, so I'm using the proprietary software from the VIPEC site.

http://www.vi-pec.com/page_files/V88.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry View Post
We could do with a thread on these systems, how to connect up, read them, etc.
Also, how to program to change engine operation, etc.
I know nothing about this, other than what I have learned in relation to the V88 ECU

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rally View Post
While I know a bit about pullings engines apart and working on cars in general, I tend to steer clear of any involved re-mapping of ECU software. There are any number of so called experts who cannot get it right. I've had a look at my Impreza's ecu because it runs a Haltech and you can change everything on that ecu, and do data logging and so on. I have played around with the launch control and even doing that may or may not have affected normal engine operations. Unless you really know what you are doing, or have someone with you who does, I'd leave it to the people who know what they are doing. Not that there are many of them.
Not re-mapping ECU software at all, just using it. I was following clear instructions about one parameter. Nice to have it and to slowly learn and understand it though.

Last edited by Dulagarl; 24th February 2011 at 08:03 AM.
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  #26  
Unread 6th March 2011, 07:58 PM
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Did some minor modifications to the bashplate last week, to improve airflow through the engine bay. Cut some vent flaps (like on Venom's bashplate) towards the front to allow spent air from the radiator to be drawn out under the front of the motor. (I say flpas becuase I cut three sides of a rectangle, with the rear most side still attached. I then pushed the cut part up into the engine bay, so that air from the radiator is caught and drawn down and out.

Also straightened up the bashplate and replaced the nuts it screws into, and replaced the bolts with high tensile bolts. Now have about a CM clearance around the headers, which will keep things a bit cooler as well. Will probably cut some vent flaps near the headers at some point.

In the process, used some stuff called 'Lanotec". It's a lanolin spray, obviously made from wool fat. Completely bio-degradable. A good alternative to WD 40 etc. for underbody and wheeel nuts and the like. Wouldn't use it for wet motors though.

Yesterday was headlight protection. Got some of that headlight film made by 'Altrex". It's available at Supercheap auto. needed to put some on for protection and also becuase the headlights had a couple of very fine cracks which allowed a small amount of water in. Surprisingly, the protection film works very well if you follow the instructions, and produces a good result. The headlights look new.

Tomorrow, the cargo barrier goes in. had to settle for an expensive Milford which I am buying new. It is really not worth getting a second hand one because the cost of the mounting kit plus fitting is $300, and with the cost of a second hand barrier ($100 to $150?), refinishing the barrier to eliminate and protect against rust (up to $200 depending on who you ask), the new barrier at around $650 fitted is better value in my opinion.

Unfortunatley, the cheaper autosafe version for roof rack place in yarraville is not an option. Not currently available for MY00 Forester becuase they are re-designing the mounts (it used to use the child safety seat mounts which is apparently a no no).

This time in two weeks I am heading across the Nullarbor, so all preparations are going well. next job to organise is to develop a second engine map for economy. Friend of a friend is a subie mechanic who has offered to help on that front. Might even be able to fit cruise control without too much hassle.
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  #27  
Unread 6th March 2011, 11:37 PM
MadScotsMan MadScotsMan is offline
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Nice rig, for sure and, I must say, Australia has some gorgeous real estate! Thanks for the pics!
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  #28  
Unread 7th March 2011, 09:33 AM
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Double Jealous now Djulpan!

Awesome H6 foz that you're doing all the right stuff with AND a crossing of the Nullabour! I'd love to do that again... I'm hoping I can talk the wife into it for later this year in Ruby Scoo - will have to wait and see how that goes.

Love the subi - keep up the good work and keep us posted!

Cheers

Bennie
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  #29  
Unread 11th March 2011, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djulpan View Post
Did some minor modifications to the bashplate last week, to improve airflow through the engine bay. Cut some vent flaps (like on Venom's bashplate) towards the front to allow spent air from the radiator to be drawn out under the front of the motor. (I say flpas becuase I cut three sides of a rectangle, with the rear most side still attached. I then pushed the cut part up into the engine bay, so that air from the radiator is caught and drawn down and out.
It's nice too see this H6 Foz went to a good home, mate! I saw this one for sale on ebay and telling my mates and relies that they should buy it, but you too quick for them.
Djulpan, I can feel the overheating problems you have coz I also had that before. It started when I fitted the Subaextreme bullbar, some vans and 4wd's also had this problem when they fitted with bullbar, it's combination of not enough air going into the radiator because the flat surface of bullbar(kind of deflecting away air to go in) so I fix that by drilling 16mm holes on the bullbar and also cut that center skirt or that bit of panel that come down where you cut holes, I replace that with another panel that scoops air from bottom of bullbar and deflects it in the bottom of radiator. I also moved and remount the driving light away from the front of radiator. Next thing I did is to help the underbonnet hot air to get out by cutting my hole on the bonnet and fitted a louvre grill similar idea to the bonnet vents they have have in the WRX, i did not cut any structural frame of the bonnet. I have had some enquiries on this mods from SKT before. Check-out my thread and maybe that will explain better with the pics.
The other suggestion I can recommend is install an engine oil cooler and change the radiator with an alloy 3 core Golpher radiator. I have used my xt Forester in heavy duty towing over 4ton loaded trailer(I know that it's not legal,lucky not get book), and no dramas that's towing not slow in long distance...1800kms. from Albury,NSW to Bundaberg,Qld.
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  #30  
Unread 11th March 2011, 10:01 PM
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Dulagarl Dulagarl is offline
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^ Thanks for th info. I studied the thread on your machine closely while thinking about this one.

What bonnet vents did you use, and where did you get em? I have seen the pics of them.

I'm inclined to put some in a bit further back though, to get rid of some of the engine heat. I reckon airflow through the radiator is pretty good now.

Not inclined to change the radiator though: the car has a H6 radiator in it, and it's in good nick. Spoke to Al who did the engine transplant, and he reckons I should keep the radiator becuase the heat is not a radiator issue. Might look at an engine oil cooler at some later stage.

(thinks: "could I use the AT fluid cooler at the bottom of the radiator? Probably not.")
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