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  #81  
Unread 19th June 2017, 02:26 PM
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jf1sf5 jf1sf5 is offline
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You can't stop such a project !

What CV axles did you finally use ?
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  #82  
Unread 27th September 2017, 09:18 PM
DumbUglyDragon DumbUglyDragon is offline
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This is amazing. Any updates?
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  #83  
Unread 17th October 2017, 04:00 AM
Jeremiahs22 Jeremiahs22 is offline
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It's been a long time with no update, but now that my roadtrip around america is complete (over 20,000 miles traveled this summer), I have the time to give a little update.

First off, thank you guys for the kind words and support, I appreciate it!

So to answer Jf1sf5's question, the axles I'm using in front are a 930 inner CV's with 1.1" of plunge an 27* max articulation bolted to Subarugears 930 flanges, then on the outboard end, they are late 90's Ford f250/350 specific joints made by NTN with Subaru stubs welded to them and some super beefy chromoly shafts in between the joints:

20170604_123531 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

The work was done by CVO (Constant Velocity of Ocala) and they cost 950 USD plus 400 for the Subaru gears flanges in case any of you are interested.
Some of you may be wondering why I didn't go with DSS, and that is because I called them to get an idea, and the guy was not only unfriendly, but hardly helpful and slightly condescending and also they charged twice as much.
I also contacted RCV, who was way more friendly and helpful, but they were going to take much longer because they would have needed me to mail them my stubs to take measurements and 3d models, but I didn't have the time back then.

Now for the update:
I got back to Alaska on September 3rd and only stayed for a little over a week because I had to get down to Oregon soon for work. But while there, I did spend some time with the Foz to at least get it running.

During the trip, I had been thinking about the IACV code (24) and figured that there must be a wiring problem, either a ground or power wire to the sensor. So I tested for 12v on the power wire and then tested continuity from iacv plug to ecu plugs for the two signal wires and they checked out fine. Then double checked that the ecu was putting out the right power to those wires and was pretty stumped at that point.

I came across an old forum post somewhere that claimed that old subie ecu's will throw a false code 24 for the IACV if the "backup power supply" wire to the ecu doesn't have constant 12v. I thought there was no way, but sure as ****, I tested that wire at the ecu plug and it had 0 resistance to ground; I merged it to a damn ground wire! After wiring that properly (though poorly), it still wouldn't start. So we checked for fuel, and of course there was no gas! After putting gas in it, the beast fired right up. We took it on a little trip around the block and it seemed fine, though I still haven't had a chance to really open her up because it's loud af. So with that sorted, I hung the fenders and bumper on so I could finally see what it looks like, and I think it's pretty awesome, just needs bigger tires.

DSC03922 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

DSC03923 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

You may notice that the front camber is positive, and the rear negative; that is because my front ball joint contraption is no good, even though it fits nice and tight in the knuckle, it can still rock back and forth, causing the camber to change. I'll be fabbing some new knuckles soon, as well as some cool new control arms to try to mount the shocks better since the cantilever setup (sorry I never got a pic of the finished product) weighs a good 50lbs total.
As for the rear camber, the drivers side inner trailing arm mount is too low. But to get more travel in the rear, and for less weight, i'll be switching to a 3 or 4 link IRS similar to a RZR or Can-am X3 respectively.

That's it for now; the Foz is sitting in Alaska for now, so I can't work on it, but I can make the control arms and probably the rear setup before going back up to Alaska, if I decide to.
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  #84  
Unread 17th October 2017, 05:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremiahs22 View Post
just needs bigger tires.
and a bigger body to house them!

Thanks for the update and yes it is lookin' really good!
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  #85  
Unread 17th October 2017, 05:19 AM
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NachaLuva NachaLuva is offline
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Hot damn! Look at that axle!!

Will be interested to see the new rear suspension design. How's the front cantilever design going?

Looks great mate!!
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  #86  
Unread 17th October 2017, 07:50 AM
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That's awesome.

Needs a snorkel

Top effort. I wish I could make bar work like what you've been doing!

Keep up the good work - and stick with it, don't let this die because "it's got the better of you" or you've lost motivation because of... - just think of how far you've come and complete the project.

Last thing, where's its first outing going to be?

Cheers

Bennie

PS, I didn't think I'd ever see a trailing swing arm "L series" arrangement on a forester! EVER!!
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  #87  
Unread 2nd June 2018, 12:41 PM
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@Jeremiahs22 It's been a few months now, hows things?
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  #88  
Unread 2nd June 2018, 01:05 PM
scalman scalman is offline
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Amazing car. So you can drive only in alaska with that thing?
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  #89  
Unread 2nd June 2018, 05:37 PM
Jeremiahs22 Jeremiahs22 is offline
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Alright guys, here's an update:
In January the temperature finally warmed up to 30*F so I drug Ol' Silver out of its snowy grave as it began to rain:

DSC06783 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

DSC06788 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

DSC06791 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

DSC06802 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

DSC07431 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

This began the escapade in trying to get the thing running right. I changed the spark plugs, checked fuel pressure, injectors tested bad, knock sensors tested bad, fuel pump was questionable. When I replaced the fuel pump with a Walbro 255, I noticed that the charcoal canister hose I had connected to one of the lines on the pump housing was actually the line that sucks fuel from the other part of the stock saddle tank. So fuel was actually flowing into the tank through the return and also flowing up that line because it was under vacuum, to the engine. So with the cause of the flooding fixed, I pulled the springs off the coilovers to look at clearances at full bump (something I never got the chance to do):

DSC07443 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

DSC07449 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

DSC07450 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

DSC07440 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

Conclusion: It's obvious that I need to do a lot more cutting to the fenders, but the ground clearance and front/rear ride height is almost exactly where I wanted it to be. The front had 1" more ground clearance than the rear which will be 4" with 33" tires. The rear will be 3" with 33's. This was at 17" front travel and 21" rear. I do wish the rear were squatted a couple inches lower to have some reserve bump travel to prevent bucking but that would mean cutting the quarter panels up to the bottom of the windows. Moving the diff up would be easy though.

Here are some shots from the day I did some test driving:

DSC08242 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

DSC08122 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

DSC08143 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

I'm still facing an issue though: the engine runs perfectly smooth and reliably, but it seems down on power and oddly loud (even for a dual 2.5" exhaust with glasspacks). It seems like it's retarding timing but there are no codes and everything seems to test fine. I also tried the ECU from my Impreza with the same results.
That's pretty much it for now.

Last edited by Jeremiahs22; 3rd June 2018 at 06:18 PM.
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  #90  
Unread 2nd June 2018, 07:57 PM
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Thanks for the update - just "slight" rubbing on full compression
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