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  #11  
Old 5th July 2011, 01:48 AM
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Excellent trip report there Dulagarl. Im really enjoying it. I have been waiting months

The H6 Foz just looks so in place out there in the middle of nowhere

Can't wait for the next part of the trip.

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Taza
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  #12  
Old 5th July 2011, 05:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taza View Post
Excellent trip report there Dulagarl. Im really enjoying it.
You're not the only one taza
I too am thoroughly enjoying the daily adventures of this trip to say the least It's just like I'm there on the trip with you Dulagarl

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Old 5th July 2011, 01:37 PM
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Just gets better & better!
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Old 6th July 2011, 03:12 AM
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^^ It sure does

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  #15  
Old 6th July 2011, 10:17 AM
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Ok: don't be too surprised, but here is the next installment. Day four, Canunda to the Coorong.

Day 4: Canunda to Coorong

I woke reasonably early because I had the benefit of travelling west and had moved into the central time zone, while my body had not really paid much attention. The sound of the waves had kept me conscious of my location while I slept to varying degrees of depth. There is something smug about how nature’s sounds might wake you to the slightest degree, and remind you “I am here”, as distinct from the city sounds that remind you of your presence in a far less comforting way. The former helps you drift back to sleep with a smile on your face, while the latter compels you to fight consciousness in a scowling, grumpy, demanding way.

The air of sleeping in a tent in a reasonably remote location has a curative property of such a nature as to almost dissipate what would otherwise be a hangover. Opening the tent when prompted by bodily necessity leads you to the surprise of daylight differing from the recollection of night: a difference that should be obvious but which marks out the boundary between reality and memory. Thus it was that day four began with a view of the vehicle, a grip of the shovel and a short but necessary and discreet walk.

That process completed, as I anticipated it would be in a different locale for many days to come, a drink of water and a piece of fruit saw me on my way to survey the immediate locale of Two Rocks’ camp.



The view from the dune between camp and the ocean that had talked to me all night was as refreshing as the prevailing south westerly that gently brought air that had been breathed by no-one between me and Antarctica, yet had been warmed by the waters of the Bight that had in turn been warmed by the southern summer sun.

Returning to camp and the shelter of the coastal scrub I was soon warmed by the sun that thinned but couldn’t quite break the coastal cloud. Breakfast and excellent coffee prepared me to try and unravel the mystery of the tyre that had no obvious reason for losing air. Soapy water didn’t help in that endeavour and I decided to leave it to the experts to resolve when next I was in a town. That being resolved, the fact that I was down to one functioning spare tyre as opposed to two would stay with me for the day.

Camp packed and off, it wasn’t long before I was again out of the vehicle and taking in a vantage point over yet another piece of coastline.



I returned to track between dunes and ocean, and at times the shelter of the dunes limited airflow into the engine bay of the Forester that was crowded by a six cylinder motor where once sat a four. The open glove box with the red LED display of the temperature gauge told me that at times I was getting close to hot, but the cool conditions allowed me to open the windows and apply the “auxiliary radiator” (car heater).

I had seen signs at the entrance of the National Park that told me that access to Lake Bonney was closed, and I had resigned myself to not seeing it at all. By mid morning I saw another sign pointing me in the direction of Lake Bonney, across a massive dune with the track marked by vertical poles as one would expect in snow. Soon I was overlooking Lake Bonney, with my back to the sea and the wind.



Strangely, I wondered whether I had mobile phone coverage, and I soon discovered that I did. I felt compelled to send a phone picture much like the one above to SKT, so that he could vicariously enjoy the journey that the vehicle that was once his was now involved in. I also rang JH and then felt that I couldn’t leave out my mum, who I generally ring daily when travelling. Mum had the ragged old road atlas handy and was soon able to pinpoint my location, and thereby have something to tell her mates when next they met up.



It really was a magnificent dune overlooking Lake Bonney, and again I reflected on how well the trip was going at such an early stage. Barely four days out of Melbourne and I felt long gone already.



By the time I decided to leave the view of Lake Bonney it was almost lunch time, but I knew that if I stayed there for lunch the afternoon would drift away with a view like this, so I turned and headed back towards the coast.

Between Bonney and the sea I found collapsed strata of exposed sedimentary rock, almost like shale but not quite that old, and enjoyed a vegetarian pastie heated in the 12volt stove in the car. (Oh: I hadn’t mentioned that piece of equipment had I?). Tomato sauce was of course obligatory.



Driving onwards towards the north, more opportunities arose to choose between the beach and the country in the dunes. I knew I would be severely questioned by some folks at offroadsubarus.com if I had no pictures to show of driving on the beach, so I organised at least a few, of which this one was the best…



By now, the day was getting away from me. This picture was taken in the vicinity of the point where the track leaves the beach to head inland to Coola Outstation, and further north west of there is Geltwood beach, where the 4 wd track ends.

(continued)

Last edited by Dulagarl; 6th July 2011 at 07:43 PM.
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  #16  
Old 6th July 2011, 10:19 AM
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Day four continued...

It was decision time: another night in this park or not? It was Friday, and I determined that I should head to the nearest town, Millicent, to deal with the flat tyre with no obvious puncture, and perhaps return to Geltwood to camp.

Millicent is not bad actually, certainly not of the inconvenient size of Mt Gambier. I soon found a tyre retailer of the traditional “tyres and rubber are dirty and so are tyre fitters” type, and the burly but friendly attendant soon had me sorted with a refitted tyre with the rim leak resolved for $10.

Back on the road, I made one of those decisions that lead to more driving than you really want to do for the rest of the day, when I reckoned that Geltwood beach being 2wd accessible would probably attract idiots of various sorts on a Friday night. Based on that, with the road atlas open on the front passenger seat, I set off for the Coorong, not entirely sure at that point where I would camp for the night except that I was hoping to get to a 4wd accessible camp.

At decent speed I made my way to Kingston S.E, refuelled and after a quick read of “Lewis and Savage” set off for a camp known as “Wreck Crossing” at the southern end of the Coorong.

With daylight fading, I made it and got my first look at the south end of the Coorong, which had not yet refilled after years of drought.



The light at the end of the day has its own special quality.



So, here I was in Ngarrindjeri country: the home nation of David Unaipon the man on the $50 note. I had long aspired to be here, and had great plans for what I would do now that I was here. Something did not feel right, in fact something felt decidedly not right. I couldn’t quite identify what it was, and perhaps it was just that I felt a bit rushed that afternoon. Whatever it was, I knew it wasn’t right but I didn’t know what “it” was.

I set up camp, organised dinner, and got a reasonably early night, optimistic in myself that tomorrow would bring a different complexion to things.
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  #17  
Old 6th July 2011, 11:09 AM
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  #18  
Old 7th July 2011, 06:50 AM
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I said it before & I'm going to say it again....What a fantastic trip report.....the more I read, the better it gets

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  #19  
Old 7th July 2011, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr turbo View Post
I said it before & I'm going to say it again....What a fantastic trip report.....the more I read, the better it gets
and we're only four days into it...
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  #20  
Old 7th July 2011, 09:11 AM
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I agree with Damian, fantastic trip report.
Comeone with the next section!!! Can't wait to hear about more.
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