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  #251  
Old 10th July 2018, 08:09 AM
1WD Foz 1WD Foz is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Melbourne far west
Year: 98
Model: Forester
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El_Freddo View Post
Yeah ouch.



Which pulley died - assuming that you replaced only the belt at the last change?



Don't underestimate how long it will take to remove the dead belt from the crank pulley. You'll probably find the rubber has melted onto the timing sprocket. You'll need to remove ALL dead belt material to ensure the new belt is not damaged.



Good effort so far though mate



Cheers



Bennie


Thatís the random thing.... I expected an exploded pulley but they all spin fine, the one that you would use to tension the timing belt was flapping around as there was no belt, so Iím guessing they never changed the belt as thats the only thing thatís died.

I bought the car 20,000k ish after it ďapparentlyĒ had the timing belt done.
The car did sit for a year after itís owner went into a nursing home, but was apparently started and driven, not sure if that would contribute, only other thing I could possibly blame is my offroad abuse.

Like I said to scalman.... Iíll never buy a car again without replacing the belt myself.

Lmao, it took me 25min to unravel the extensive mess that was once a timing belt from the crank pulley, Iím sure Iíll have more to come off when I can get closer.
When the belt snapped it collected on the crank pulley, as this happened it must have snapped the timing belt cover as I found a giant hole in the cover just above the crank pulley.



1WD
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  #252  
Old 10th July 2018, 09:17 AM
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El_Freddo El_Freddo is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Bendigo, Vic
Year: 1988
Model: EJ22'd L series
Transmission: Locking Centre Diff 5spd Manual 4.111:1 diff ratio with 1.59:1 low range and a front OBX LSD ;)
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The 22's cam belt covers will do the job so don't buy parts for the replacement of that

Cheers

Bennie
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  #253  
Old 10th July 2018, 09:26 AM
scalman scalman is offline
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Year: 2001
Model: Outback '01, 2.5 NA , VDC
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Sometimes it just no luck. Stuff happens there was reason for that maybe it was not timing belt mayne it was. There was no question for me i just changed all belts all filters all oils, spark plugs .
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  #254  
Old 10th July 2018, 09:59 AM
1WD Foz 1WD Foz is offline
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Haha no I was more trying to figure out how this happened
Wonít be replacing it thatís for sure lol
All I can wish for is good luck with the next engine

1WD
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  #255  
Old 10th July 2018, 10:17 AM
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El_Freddo El_Freddo is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Bendigo, Vic
Year: 1988
Model: EJ22'd L series
Transmission: Locking Centre Diff 5spd Manual 4.111:1 diff ratio with 1.59:1 low range and a front OBX LSD ;)
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Any play in the idler bearings or the waterpump?

I've seen a badly worn waterpump that leaked and was running the belt into the cam cover, cutting a groove and the belt in the process...

Cheers

Bennie
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  #256  
Old 13th July 2018, 08:23 AM
1WD Foz 1WD Foz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El_Freddo View Post
Any play in the idler bearings or the waterpump?



I've seen a badly worn waterpump that leaked and was running the belt into the cam cover, cutting a groove and the belt in the process...



Cheers



Bennie


I went back and played with the idlers and water pump pulley and found that the lower rhs idler made a loud noise when i spun it fast with an old belt.

So maybe the rhs lower idler wasn't replaced at last timing belt change? or maybe non oem part? i don't know

No coolant leaks from the water pump.



Nearly finished getting the engine ready to be removed yesterday.

# Drained oil

# Disconnected all engine electrics

# Removed ECU

# Refit loom to removed EJ20J Intake manifold (so i don't forget lol)

# Unbolted a/c

# Removed starter

# Disconnected slave cylinder

# Disconnected UEL headers

(Anyone wanna buy some EJ20J UEL headers? hit me up lol)







Then I just went over the engine to see if I could find anything that was still attaching the motor to the rest of the foz, or anything that would be in the way when it comes time to rip her out.

I found a couple engine coolant pipes that run on the passenger side of the block that I hadn't disconnected and chose to removed the oil fill pipe and the washer reservoir to make more room....so if I'm correct that leaves me with the engine mounts and the bell housing and its out!!



So far the parts I'm looking to buy to service the EJ22 before I drop it in are:



# Gates timing belt kit w/water pump

# Rear main seal

# Cam cover seals

# Oil pump O ring

# Thermostat & gasket

# Leads & plugs

# Oil & air filter

# Cv boots

# Oil/coolant



Next on my list is to figure out how to remove the EJ20 crank & lhs cam sprocket plus all sensors.



If you guys can think of anything im missing.... please let me know.

Im really hoping I won't need to do a HG as I've never done one before and its scary lol.







1WD
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  #257  
Old 13th July 2018, 10:30 AM
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duncanm duncanm is offline
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Year: 1998
Model: Outback. JDM TT conversion
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Excellent progress.


Suggest also:

- replace all the timing belt idlers

- think about a rocker cover (+ spark plug o-rings) gasket set
- check the oil seperator plate on the back of the block. Pretty sure a 2.2 will be aluminium, but replace it if its plastic.
- new clutch, release and spigot bearings
- crank seal on the oil pump (comes with pump?)
- cam sprockets -- the end of the cam near the sprocket has a couple of flats on it for you to grab with an open-ended spanner.. people use the old timing belt, but I guess you don't have that option
- check your engine mounts - they're probably shagged.
- good time to clean up the steering rack and check the boots, change if required etc... if you're feeling like you don't have enough on your plate at the moment, drop the subframe while the engine is out and re-do all the front suspension bushes.
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  #258  
Old 13th July 2018, 10:48 AM
scalman scalman is offline
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good ideas. sure when you on it you should check and change as much and you can.
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  #259  
Old 14th July 2018, 07:03 AM
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El_Freddo El_Freddo is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Bendigo, Vic
Year: 1988
Model: EJ22'd L series
Transmission: Locking Centre Diff 5spd Manual 4.111:1 diff ratio with 1.59:1 low range and a front OBX LSD ;)
Posts: 1,809
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With the gates timing kit just make sure it's not made in China. I've heard many US subi nuts saying that the gates kits have moved manufacturing to china. Best to go genuine if possible.

No need to pull subframe to do suspension bushes, just pull the lower control arms out. You can also do the rack bushes if you want

It's a great time to give the engine bay a thorough clean up too.

Cheers

Bennie
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