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  #1  
Unread 12th May 2018, 11:19 AM
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Default SG Forester 1" spacer on raised springs?

sorry to bring up this old chestnut again.
I have an SG forester with 1" raised Kings on KYB struts. Not ideal offroad combo but I'm mainly onroad and running a thicker rear swaybar anyway.
Ride is not harsh as reported, wife and kids have not complained.
I am looking to raise another inch with 1" strut top spacers.
Regarding CV joints I am reading conflicting reports saying they are fine and other saying they will stress out the CVs.
Will putting the 1" spacers cause problems?
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Unread 12th May 2018, 06:50 PM
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Short answer - no! I have a lot more lift on mine and CVs are fine.
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Unread 13th May 2018, 12:32 AM
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thanks Kevin
do you also run body spacers?
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Unread 13th May 2018, 12:38 AM
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Nope - it's a combination of raised springs, raised spring perches and strut top blocks.


Refer https://offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=953
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Unread 13th May 2018, 08:39 AM
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Can confirm raised springs & 1" spacers are fine for the CVs. You'll also need 2" trailing arm spacers to keep the rear wheels centred. Feel free to PM me for details
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Unread 14th May 2018, 10:33 AM
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Are the trailing arm spacers absolutely necessary ? I have a 4cm gap from rear wheel to wheelarch at the moment.
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Unread 14th May 2018, 07:15 PM
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Not absolutely necessary as I ran with raised springs and strut top lift blocks without trailing arm spacers until my suspension was reworked with the custom struts. Just check the gap when the suspension is fully extended / compressed.
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Unread 15th May 2018, 09:19 AM
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Trailing arm spacers will only be necessary if you are running larger tyres.


Lifted springs and 1" spacers means you will have a 2" lift without any camber or caster offset. So you will probably need aftermarket camber bolts for good camber alignment.
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Unread 9th June 2018, 05:15 AM
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finished install but looks like a ridiculous amount of positive camber.
Are aftermarket camber bolts the only answer?




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Unread 9th June 2018, 07:12 AM
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Camber bolts are the best cost vs quality method. Make sure you get the correct rating. From memory the stock bolts are grade 8 and you need grade 12.9 when doing camber bolts as they are a smaller effective diameter.



The camber bolts at Repco where the right rating and not that expensive.


You can elongate the hole to fix the camber, but I don't recommend that way. Longer control arms are expensive. Adjustable tophats are more expensive then camber bolts. Lowering the diff would also work, but then you loose ground clearance. So just go the camber bolt method...
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