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  #1  
Old 14th February 2009, 07:13 AM
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Default Votage drop....???

So after bragging about the ABR Sidewinder fridge and battery box I bought it starts to go to sh1t.....

I've noticed that of late the Isolator built in to the batt box has been chattering. I read in the instructions for the box this usually means that the alternator voltage is dropping below 14v. The anderson plug at the back of the car is actually wired via a incar Redarc dual charge isolator so I'm going to wire round it and see if it stops that.

In hand with that.... the fridge should give an initial 'beep' and then display the current temp then after a few minutes the main fridge fan kicks in and its starts to cool.
At the moment the fridge does all except the fan does not come on and the fridge never cools..... not really any good at all. I've run the fridge using the 240v power supply that comes with it and it runs fine.
I have tested the fridge off the battery box and straight off the in-car 12v cigy sockets. Same results. I e-mailed the maker of the box and fridge and he said if it runs fine on 240v then its fine..... its not getting the required 12v on start up....


I'm no jet with power.... I dont see how it can get some power but not enough tot do the job..... any clues...????

Scott
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Old 14th February 2009, 03:06 PM
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I hate inverters. Altenator output can vary between 12.5 volts to 14.3 volts and be normal. The lower end is everything on and at a stop light. The higher end is everything off and cruising down the highway.

I have ditched big inverters in favor of smaller more task oriented ones. I had a 1200 watt inverter that never worked for the reason you cited, and on top of it the freaking thing had an alarm on it to tell you the voltage was too low (but was in actuality fine).

Check the connector and power at the socket. I am not happy with the mfg's response.

nipper
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Old 14th February 2009, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nipper View Post
I hate inverters. Altenator output can vary between 12.5 volts to 14.3 volts and be normal. The lower end is everything on and at a stop light. The higher end is everything off and cruising down the highway.

I have ditched big inverters in favor of smaller more task oriented ones. I had a 1200 watt inverter that never worked for the reason you cited, and on top of it the freaking thing had an alarm on it to tell you the voltage was too low (but was in actuality fine).

Check the connector and power at the socket. I am not happy with the mfg's response.

nipper
Just to clear it up..... Its not an inverter.....???

Its the isolator/charge unit. The fridge has just one input but must have a built in inverter to deal with it all.

Gonna pop the back of the fridge today and probe around.... if it goes wrong tell my wife I love her
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Old 14th February 2009, 07:13 PM
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is the 240V power supply an inverter/power pack or a plug straight in job? i wouldn't pull it apart without some more testing as it might void the warrenty
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Old 14th February 2009, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SKT View Post
I dont see how it can get some power but not enough tot do the job..... any clues...????

Scott
My fridge needs a certain voltage (a little less than 12V) to start. This is to protect the battery and also to protect the fridge as it seems that running with low voltage is bad for fridge. I investigated it once as I wanted it to keep running at a lower voltage as I use a 2nd battery - but its circuitry won't allow it.
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Old 14th February 2009, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SKT View Post
The fridge has just one input but must have a built in inverter to deal with it all.
The "transformer" (240V to 12V) may be in the 240V power supply - is it like a laptop power supply? This would be why the manufacturer can claim your car is not delivering the correct voltage knowing that the 240V power supply is delivering a full 12V.
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Old 15th February 2009, 02:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eden View Post
is the 240V power supply an inverter/power pack or a plug straight in job? i wouldn't pull it apart without some more testing as it might void the warrenty
The manufacturer suggested I test it myself.... him being in Brissy and me being in Perth.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin
The "transformer" (240V to 12V) may be in the 240V power supply - is it like a laptop power supply? This would be why the manufacturer can claim your car is not delivering the correct voltage knowing that the 240V power supply is delivering a full 12V.
The 240v power supply has the following written on it....
Input 120-240vVAC
Output 13.5VDC 10Amp

Today I plugged the fridge straight into a mates 12v cigy plug of his car and the fridge cranked up fine.
Complete with 'beep'.... temp display.... then within 60 secs the compressor and fan kicked in and it started to cool.

So..... it seems that the voltage coming from the car batt and the batt in the batt box is not enough to get the fridge into complete operation.... thus the manufacturer was able to say that the fridge was fine due to the 240AC-13.5DC power supply.

Giving me the sh1ts somethin royal now....
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Old 15th February 2009, 02:59 AM
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OK.... positive results.....

When I did the powerplant transplant 12 months ago I had a dual batt Redarc isolator installed.... it runs to the anderson plug up rear.

For a while now, as I said before, the isolator in the sidewinder batt box has been chattering. I decided to slightly re-wire the box, around the built in isolator now relying totally on the in-car isolator.
Firstly.... when I plugged the fridge in after wiring round the batt box isolator, the fridge came to life without any issues and started cooling without issues.

Sweet

It seems that the batt box isolator is somehow restricting the voltage to the fridge. And with it out of the picture the battery in the batt box is now charging from the car via the in-car isolator and charging sweet.... and obviously there is no bloody anoying chattering.....

Seems to be all good for now.

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  #9  
Old 15th February 2009, 03:42 AM
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NOT HAPPY JAN.......!!!

Bad news regarding the fridge....

Now it wont even start the compressor or fan off 240v...

I have had so many mixed results from this fridge during my testing over the last few days....

I have had it arc up on 240v.
I have had it arc up on 12v from my car, my batt box and 12v from my mates car....

I have walked away and 20 minutes later it wont arc up off any source whether it be 240v, 12v off the car or 12v off the batt box.

Always gets the 'beep' and displays temp but no compressor or fan..
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  #10  
Old 15th February 2009, 04:20 AM
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May have been a low batt....

Still a few unexplained things.... we'll see.
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